Skip to content
European luxury, edited.
JournalNewsletterPartner
Request Access
European luxury, edited.
Paris Fashion Week SS27: dates, the 2 debuts and where the Italian houses show
Photo by Miraxh Tereziu on Unsplash

Fashion Week

Paris Fashion Week SS27: dates, the 2 debuts and where the Italian houses show

By Riccardo ValliSeptember 24, 20266 min readStyle & Living Desk

Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 runs from Monday 28 September to Tuesday 6 October 2026. The official calendar published by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode lists around 100 houses, roughly two-thirds of them staging runway shows, and it opens with Julie Kegels at 14:30 on the Monday and closes with Louis Vuitton at 18:30 eight days later. Two designers make their debuts. Two houses come home to Paris after a season abroad. And the Italians, as usual, hold the Sunday.

Nine days, two debuts

Only two collections this season are a designer’s first for their house. On Wednesday 30 September at 10:30, Drew Henry shows his first Courrèges. The South African designer, formerly senior design director at Burberry and before that at JW Anderson and Phoebe Philo, was appointed artistic director on 30 March 2026 after Nicolas Di Felice stepped down following five years at the house. On Thursday 1 October at 12:30, Kai Nesselrath shows his first Carven. Rome-born and German, trained at Polimoda and Central Saint Martins, he was head designer of womenswear at Saint Laurent under Anthony Vaccarello before Carven named him design director in June. Everyone else on the big stages is in their second season or beyond: Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, Jonathan Anderson at Dior, Michael Rider at Celine, Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe, Sarah Burton at Givenchy, Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela, Duran Lantink at Jean Paul Gaultier, Antonin Tron at Balmain. No house has announced a farewell show.

Day by day: the shows that matter

Date Time House Note
Tue 29 Sept 14:30 Dior Jonathan Anderson, livestream
Tue 29 Sept 17:30 Maison Margiela Back in Paris after Shanghai
Tue 29 Sept 21:00 Saint Laurent Anthony Vaccarello, livestream
Wed 30 Sept 10:30 Courrèges Debut of Drew Henry
Wed 30 Sept 20:00 Tom Ford Haider Ackermann
Thu 1 Oct 12:30 Carven Debut of Kai Nesselrath
Thu 1 Oct 14:00 Balenciaga Pierpaolo Piccioli, livestream
Thu 1 Oct 19:00 Schiaparelli Daniel Roseberry
Fri 2 Oct 11:30 Loewe McCollough and Hernandez, livestream
Fri 2 Oct 17:30 Givenchy Sarah Burton
Sat 3 Oct 12:00 Celine Michael Rider, livestream
Sat 3 Oct 15:00 Hermès Film released at 18:00
Sun 4 Oct 13:00 Miu Miu Miuccia Prada, livestream
Sun 4 Oct 15:30 Valentino Back in Paris after Rome
Mon 5 Oct 20:00 Chanel Film released at 21:00
Tue 6 Oct 18:30 Louis Vuitton Closes the week, livestream

Around those slots the calendar fills in the usual way. Tuesday adds Anrealage at 19:00. Wednesday has Balmain at 13:30, Dries Van Noten at 15:00, Stella McCartney at 16:00 and Acne Studios at 18:30. Thursday runs from Chloé at 10:00 through Rick Owens at 17:30 to Isabel Marant at 20:00. Friday has Issey Miyake, Lanvin, Yohji Yamamoto and Victoria Beckham. Saturday stacks Junya Watanabe, Vivienne Westwood, Elie Saab, Comme des Garçons and Ann Demeulemeester around Hermès, and Alaïa holds a presentation from 18:00 instead of a show, its first season since Pieter Mulier’s final show for the house in March. Sunday closes with Mugler at 18:30 and Jean Paul Gaultier at 20:00; Monday has Sacai, Gabriela Hearst and Zimmermann before Chanel; Tuesday has Pierre Cardin at 17:00 before Vuitton. The full list is on the official FHCM calendar, which is public and does not need a login.

Two returns and the absences

The week has two homecomings. Maison Margiela showed its autumn collection in Shanghai in April, the first time the house had shown outside Paris, and returns to the calendar on Tuesday 29 September. Valentino showed its autumn collection at Palazzo Barberini in Rome on 12 March and is back on the Sunday. Sacai, Casablanca, Christopher Esber and Ester Manas also return to the runway schedule. The newcomers are Maxhosa Africa, the South African label founded by Laduma Ngxokolo in 2010, which opens its first Paris show on the Monday at 17:00, and two presentations, Fidan Novruzova and Alexandra Golovanoff. Jacquemus is not on the September calendar because it showed its Spring 2027 collection in Corsica in June. Alexander McQueen went back to London and showed at Lincoln’s Inn on 20 September. Rabanne is between chapters: Olivier Rousteing was named creative director in July and his first runway show is scheduled for March 2027. Giambattista Valli, Off-White and Thom Browne are not on the official schedule this season.

The Italians in Paris

Sunday 4 October is the Italian afternoon. Miu Miu at 13:00 and Valentino at 15:30 sit two and a half hours apart, with Niccolò Pasqualetti, the Italian designer whose label draws on the codes of Italian tailoring, at 12:00 just before them. Elsewhere in the week the Italian hand is on French houses: Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga on Thursday, Stefano Gallici at Ann Demeulemeester on Saturday. Moncler has taken a presentation slot on Monday 5 October from 10:00 to 18:00, an addition to the final calendar that appeared without any announcement. Dolce & Gabbana are listed by the federation for an event called Stravaganza Siciliana on Thursday 1 October from 17:00 to 19:00, with no further detail published. Schiaparelli, founded in Paris by an Italian, shows on Thursday at 19:00 under the American Daniel Roseberry.

Meanwhile in Milan

Milan’s week runs until Sunday 28 September, the day Paris opens, with 61 shows and 88 presentations on the Camera della Moda calendar. Prada opened it on Tuesday at the Fondazione Prada with a collection built around the skirt, and Fendi followed on Wednesday with Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second ready-to-wear collection for the house. The days to watch are Friday 25 September, with Gucci at 14:00, Demna’s second runway show for the house, and Moschino at 17:00, the debut of Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, the pair behind Sunnei who were appointed co-creative directors in June; and the weekend, with Ferragamo and Dolce & Gabbana on Saturday, Bottega Veneta on Saturday evening and Giorgio Armani on Sunday morning. Versace sits this season out: Pieter Mulier joined as chief creative officer on 1 July and shows his first collection in early 2027. Our Milan guide has the full schedule.

What is open to the public

Almost nothing on the calendar admits the public, with one large exception. L’Oréal Paris stages Le Défilé on Monday 28 September at 21:00 on Place Joffre, with the Eiffel Tower behind it, open to anyone who registered while seats lasted and streamed on M6+, Instagram, TikTok and YouTube. The Sphere showroom at the Palais de Tokyo runs from 30 September to 6 October for emerging labels. Outside the shows, the Palais Galliera opens “A Wardrobe of One’s Own” on 26 September, running to 14 February 2027, and the Maison Européenne de la Photographie opens “Irving Penn and Fashion” on 30 September, to 17 January. Both are the sensible way to spend a Paris afternoon when the invitation has not arrived.

The Luxury.it perspective

The interesting Paris season is not the one with ten debuts. It is this one, where the designers hired in the great reshuffle of 2025 show their second and third collections and the market decides whether the first ones were a beginning or a one-off. Blazy at Chanel, Anderson at Dior, Rider at Celine, Piccioli at Balenciaga and McCollough and Hernandez at Loewe all present on consecutive days, and for the first time they are being compared with themselves. The two real debuts, Henry at Courrèges and Nesselrath at Carven, are the kind that make a career rather than a headline. For the Italian reader the week has one appointment above all: Sunday afternoon, when Miuccia Prada and Alessandro Michele show two and a half hours apart, and Milan’s conversation with Paris is renewed for another six months.

Related guides

Milan restaurants for fashion week · Best restaurants in Milan · Concierge

Concierge

Private access, quietly arranged

Hotels, villas, yachts, tables and destination access across Italy and Europe, connected through trusted partners.

Request Private Access