Milan Fashion Week SS27: 54 shows, 1 Moschino debut and a week without Versace

The last of the big Milan shows was Giorgio Armani’s, at 11 this morning at Via Bergognone 59. It closed a week that began on Tuesday with Prada at two in the afternoon and ran through 54 physical shows, seven digital ones on Monday, 88 presentations and 54 events, 203 appointments in all according to the figures Camera Nazionale della Moda gave the Italian press, on a calendar that lists every slot. Milan Fashion Week SS27 will be remembered less for any single collection than for its calendar: a debut at Moschino, a farewell at Diesel, a first September without Giorgio Armani and with a new creative director named twelve days before the show, and no Versace at all. Here is who showed, where and when, what the houses themselves said, and what opens in Paris tomorrow at 14:30.

Day by day: who showed where

Prada opened the week on Tuesday 22 September at 14:00 at Via Lorenzini 14, the first time the house has taken the opening slot, as the Italian press noted, followed by Diesel at 16:00 at Via Moncucco 35 and, in the evening, Vogue World: Milano in the Galleria. Wednesday belonged to Jil Sander at 10:30, Fendi at 14:00 at Via Solari 35, Missoni at 16:00, MM6 Maison Margiela at 18:00 and Etro at 19:00 at Piazza Lina Bo Bardi 2. Thursday ran from Max Mara at 9:30 at Via Piranesi 14 through Marni at 14:00 at Viale Umbria 42, Alberta Ferretti at 16:00 and Roberto Cavalli at 18:00 to Emporio Armani at 20:00. Friday was the day of the week: Tod’s at 9:30 at Via Palestro 14, Sportmax at 11:30, Blumarine at 12:30, Gucci at 14:00 at Via Bartolomeo Colleoni, Gate 11, Moschino at 17:00 and The Attico at 19:00. Saturday had Ermanno Scervino at 10:30, Ferragamo at 11:30 at Viale Alemagna 6, Dolce & Gabbana at 12:30 at Viale Piave 24, MSGM at 14:00 and Bottega Veneta at 20:00, and Sunday opened with Giorgio Armani at 11:00. Versace does not appear on the calendar in any slot. Monday 28 September is digital only, seven shows from 9:30 to 12:30.

Moschino: the first show of Messina and Rizzo

The debut of the week was the one Aeffe announced in June. On 19 June the group said that Adrian Appiolaza and Moschino had “mutually agreed to part ways, effective immediately, after more than two years of collaboration”; on 21 June it named Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, the founders of Sunnei until September 2025, creative directors with immediate effect and a first collection in Milan in September. Massimo Ferretti, Aeffe’s executive chairman, framed the choice in one line: “In the evolution of a fashion house, the ability to balance identity and innovation is essential.” The two designers answered with a sentence about the founder.

“We have always admired Franco Moschino’s ability to challenge conventions through creativity while maintaining a clear and consistent voice.” Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, Aeffe statement, 21 June 2026.

Their first show ran on Friday at 17:00, at a location given only on the invitation; the Associated Press placed it on the top floor of a car park overlooking the Olympic ice hockey arena. The house has since published a 45-look gallery under the title Women’s SS27, and no text.

Armani: a new creative director, twelve days before the show

This was the first September fashion week since the death of Giorgio Armani on 4 September 2025, and the house chose the run-up to it for its most consequential announcement. On 16 September the Armani Group appointed Dario Vitale, formerly of Versace, creative director of Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani Accessories, “with immediate effect”, describing him as “the first to hold this role outside the Armani family”; Silvana Armani remains Head of Womenswear Design and Leo Dell’Orco Head of Menswear Design of the group. Giuseppe Marsocci, the chief executive, called the appointment “an important milestone for the Armani Group: a decision that strengthens our creative organization”, and Vitale said he was “honored to take on this dual role across Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani, and deeply grateful to Silvana and Leo”. The announcement said nothing about the September shows, and the house published no statement on either of them. Emporio Armani showed on Thursday at 20:00 and Giorgio Armani this morning at 11:00, both at Via Bergognone 59, the address of the Armani/Teatro. What the week established is the structure: the family’s two heads of design on the main line, and an outside creative director on Emporio and the accessories, a role that, in the group’s own words, no one outside the family had held before.

Diesel, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Fendi, Marni: the second acts

Diesel’s show on Tuesday was Glenn Martens’ last for the brand. The separation was announced on 18 September, as reported by FashionNetwork and others, with Renzo Rosso quoted as saying that Martens’ contribution “has been extraordinary” and that “he has transformed the perception of the brand”; the next chapter of the creative direction “will be announced in due course”, and Martens continues at Maison Margiela, which shows in Paris on Tuesday at 17:30. At Gucci, Demna showed men’s and women’s together on Friday at Gate 11 of Via Colleoni, his second Milan runway since the February debut, with a letter to guests in which, as reported, he wrote that “Gucci is about luxury that wants to be seen”. Bottega Veneta’s show on Saturday at 20:00, livestreamed, was Louise Trotter’s third for the house. Fendi’s, on Wednesday, was Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second ready-to-wear collection, and the house’s own note is the most quotable of the week: “A surrendering to that sense of freedom which, in the creation of the collection, becomes an interpretation of the desires of today’s bodies: strong and fragile at the same time, where masculine and feminine meet beyond wardrobe stereotypes.” Marni called Meryll Rogge’s second show Vol. 2 and conceived the show design with Formafantasma. Prada’s own text opened with four words, “The skirt as object”, and went on: “Engineered for freedom, the skirt is a Prada obsession.” Etro titled its collection Halo; Missoni wrote that “this season, movement sets the tone”.

The week without Versace

Versace did not show. The house is between chapters: the Prada Group, which owns it, appointed Pieter Mulier chief creative officer on 5 February, effective 1 July 2026, reporting to Lorenzo Bertelli as executive chairman. Bertelli said then that “when we considered the Versace acquisition, we identified Pieter Mulier as the right person for the brand”, and the group has indicated a debut in 2027 without fixing a month. Mulier’s former house, Alaïa, holds a presentation in Paris next Saturday. The absence is the clearest measure of how much of the Italian calendar is in transition at once.

Around the shows

The week’s largest opening was not a show. Prada Galleria, on the site of the original 1913 Fratelli Prada boutique in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, opened with a cocktail on Tuesday at 17:30: the women’s and men’s stores, Marchesi 1824, the Osservatorio of Fondazione Prada, a private client salon and an exhibition on the history of the brand, as the group described it in June. Vogue World: Milano followed in the Galleria at 20:00 under the title The Human Touch in the Age of Technology. Camera della Moda held its gala dinner at Palazzo Reale on Wednesday, opened its Fashion Hub at Palazzo Morando on Tuesday, staged the first Sozzani Award on Saturday and Milano Moda Graduate this morning. 10 Corso Como opened Viktor and Rolf: Spectrum on Thursday, three months after OTB bought the Dutch house outright. Hogan marked its 40th anniversary at Bocconi and Brioni showed its women’s atelier at Via Senato 28. One fixture was missing: the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards, held at La Scala at the close of the September week in recent years, were not staged this season and return in a new form, the Creative and Sustainable Fashion Awards, in September 2027.

Paris from tomorrow

Paris Fashion Week SS27 runs from Monday 28 September to Tuesday 6 October, opening with Julie Kegels at 14:30 and closing with Louis Vuitton at 18:30 on the last day. Tuesday is the first heavy day, Dior at 14:30, Maison Margiela at 17:30 and Saint Laurent at 21:00; Wednesday brings Courrèges at 10:30, Drew Henry’s first show for the house; Thursday Carven at 12:30 with Kai Nesselrath’s debut, Balenciaga at 14:00 and Schiaparelli at 19:00; Friday Loewe at 11:30 and Givenchy at 17:30; Saturday Celine at 12:00, Hermès at 15:00 and Alaïa’s presentation from 18:00; Sunday Miu Miu at 13:00 and Valentino at 15:30; Monday Chanel at 20:00. We set out the whole week, the two debuts and where the Italian houses show in our Paris guide, and the tables worth booking around it in our Paris restaurant list.

The Luxury.it perspective

We did not sit in the rooms, so this is not a review, and the week did not need one to be read. Its story was structural. Four of Milan’s largest houses arrived at the season in a state of change: Moschino with new designers three months into the job, Diesel saying goodbye to the designer who remade it, Armani reorganising its creative leadership a fortnight before its first September without its founder, and Versace choosing to skip the season rather than show between two directors. Set against that, 54 physical shows in six days and a week that opened, for the first time, with Prada, is a calendar that held. The Italian houses that are not changing hands, Prada, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta, Max Mara, carried the week, and Paris, from tomorrow, will show whether the same is true there. For a reader who follows the industry through its cities, the useful conclusion is that Milan in September 2026 was a week of appointments as much as of clothes, and that the next set of dates to watch is not on a runway but in a boardroom: Vitale’s first Emporio, Mulier’s first Versace, and Diesel’s next name.

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