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Phillips’ Geneva watch auction passes 100 million dollars for the first time
Photo by Ruben Caldera on Unsplash

Jewellery & Watches

Phillips’ Geneva watch auction passes 100 million dollars for the first time

By Riccardo ValliNovember 9, 20263 min readStyle & Living Desk

Phillips sold every one of the 217 lots at The Geneva Watch Auction XXIV on 7 and 8 November. The total reached CHF 92 million, about 112 million dollars, which the house reported as the first live watch auction to pass 100 million dollars. It ran at the Hotel President in Geneva and set 24 world records over the two days, as reported by Instituto Portugues de Relojoaria and Robb Report. The top lot was an F.P. Journe at CHF 8.68 million.

Every one of the 217 lots found a buyer, and the sale became the first in watch-auction history to pass 100 million dollars.

CHF 92 million, and a first past 100 million dollars

The headline is the total. At CHF 92,045,568, the sale passed a mark no single watch auction had reached before, and it did so with a full room: 217 lots offered and 217 sold, the clean sweep the trade calls a white-glove result. Phillips had already run a strong spring, when its Geneva, Hong Kong and New York sales took more than 235 million dollars together. The autumn Geneva sale alone now stands as the largest the watch market has seen.

The total says less about one record than about the top of the market. Buyers did not pick through the catalogue, they cleared it. A full sell-through at this level points to deep demand for the rarest references, the independent makers and the single-owner provenance that Phillips had gathered for the two days.

The top lot: an F.P. Journe at CHF 8.68 million

The sale was led by an F.P. Journe Chronometre a Resonance “Regence” in platinum, which sold for CHF 8,680,500. A Patek Philippe reference 1436 split-seconds chronograph in steel followed at CHF 6,267,000, and a Rolex reference 6062 “Stelline” in yellow gold took CHF 2,334,500. The spread is the point: a modern independent, a vintage Patek complication and a mid-century Rolex, three corners of collecting, all at the top of the board.

Independent makers held their ground further down. Sylvain Pinaud’s Origine No. 2 sold for CHF 609,600, more than five times its high estimate, the kind of result that has followed the small workshops through the past few seasons.

Twenty-four world records, and a Cartier first

Across the catalogue Phillips counted 24 world records, and the one that stood out was not a wristwatch. A Cartier Portico Mystery Clock, number four of 1924, sold for CHF 4,815,000 and set a world auction record for any Cartier timepiece. Mystery clocks, where the hands appear to float with no visible movement, are among the rarest objects Cartier ever made, and this was one of a tiny series. The result put a piece of early Art Deco clockmaking at the head of the brand’s auction history.

The Luxury.it perspective

The number to keep is 100 million dollars, the line a single watch sale had not crossed until this month. It did not come from one trophy lot but from a catalogue that sold out, which is the healthier signal. Geneva in November now anchors the watch year, ahead of the spring round, and the independents and the vintage complications are where the demand runs hottest. For collectors reading the market, the message is plain: the best examples, with clean provenance, are not getting cheaper. Our report on the Vacheron Constantin concours in Geneva covers the other side of the same city’s watch autumn.

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