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Vacheron Constantin’s Year of the Goat: two 25-piece watches with no hands
Photo by Xavier von Erlach on Unsplash

Jewellery & Watches

Vacheron Constantin’s Year of the Goat: two 25-piece watches with no hands

By Riccardo ValliOctober 27, 20263 min readStyle & Living Desk

Vacheron Constantin’s two Year of the Goat watches are limited to 25 pieces each, and neither has hands. They are the new Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac, Year of the Goat, made ahead of the Lunar New Year, which opens the Year of the Goat on 6 February 2027. One is in 18K 5N pink gold, reference 86073/000R-H105, on a dark brown alligator strap, while the other is in 950 platinum, reference 86073/000P-H104, on a dark blue one. Both measure 40 mm. On each dial a goat sculpted in gold stands on a rock, engraved and patinated by hand, in front of a scene in grand feu enamel. The pink gold model is listed at 40 mm in Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art collection. The edition sizes and technical details follow the reports of Hypebeast and T3 on 27 October.

Two editions of 25, in pink gold and platinum

The two references share the case and the movement and differ in metal and palette: in the pink gold watch the goat is in matching pink gold, with a dark brown strap, and in the platinum one it is in white gold, with a dark blue strap. Fifty watches will be made in all.

No public price has been given: “pricing is available on request”, T3 reported, and no sale date has been announced. Hypebeast points buyers to the brand’s website and boutiques. The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac is one of the lines of the Métiers d’Art collection, which the house, founded in Geneva in 1755, dedicates to the decorative crafts. Each watch in the line takes one of the twelve animals of the Chinese calendar as its subject.

Calibre 2460 G4: the time in four windows

There are no hands and no hour markers. The self-winding Calibre 2460 G4 shows the hours and minutes through two apertures at the top of the dial, and the day and date through two windows below, all colour-matched to the dial. The movement is 6.05 mm thick, has 237 components, beats at 28,800 vibrations an hour and holds about 40 hours of power reserve. It carries the Hallmark of Geneva. Its finishing includes perlage, Côtes de Genève and hand-bevelled bridges, and the sapphire caseback shows an openworked oscillating weight in 22K yellow gold and the brand’s Maltese cross. With the time pushed to the edges, the centre of the dial belongs to the goat.

Engraving, patina and grand feu enamel

The goat stands on a large rock, sculpted in three dimensions. It is finished by hand with relief engraving, patination and miniature painting in enamel, down to the horns and the fur. Behind it, the scene is in multicoloured grand feu enamel, with a blue sky, a field and foliage painted by hand with a fine brush. The enamel is fired repeatedly, at temperatures above 800°C. According to Hypebeast, Vacheron Constantin puts the enamel work alone at roughly two weeks, and the engraved goat and its rock take about three more days of handwork.

Twelve years after the last Goat

The goat is the eighth sign of the Chinese zodiac. In Chinese culture it stands for “peace, gentleness, loyalty and kindness”, in T3’s words. The cycle runs over twelve years, so this is the second Goat in the series. The first came in November 2014, in platinum and pink gold, under references 86073/000P-9890 and 86073/000R-9889. Those watches were “issued in two 12-piece limited series exclusively available through Vacheron Constantin Boutiques”, as Europa Star reported at the time, and their engravers and enamellers worked in alternating pairs.

The reference family has not changed. The same 86073 number covers the signs in between, such as the Year of the Rabbit, reference 86073/000R-B933. The Goat follows the Year of the Snake, for 2025, and the Year of the Horse, for 2026, made in the same Métiers d’Art design, as T3 notes.

The Luxury.it perspective

Métiers d’Art is where Vacheron Constantin puts its crafts first, and the Goat follows the pattern. Engraving, patina and enamel do the work, and the time sits in four small windows at the edge of the dial. Twenty-five pieces per metal is a small run. The Lunar New Year gives it its moment. Geneva’s autumn calendar is busy too, with a Patek Philippe 1518 of 1948 at Christie’s, as in our preview of the sale.

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